Quinoa (pronounced keen-wah) has
been a hot topic in the news lately. Globally, news articles boasted
frightening headlines: “The more you eat quinoa, the more you hurt Peruvians
and Bolivians” (Globe and Mail) or
“Can vegans stomach the unpalatable truth about quinoa?” (The Guardian). So how am I hurting people by eating my quinoa
salad?

Well, the newspapers argue that
with the huge rise in the price of quinoa, the grain is now too precious for
farmers to eat themselves. Instead they opt for less nutritious options such
as imported pasta or rice. Historically, quinoa has been a staple in the diet
of people in the Andes area, eaten by the Incas. It has high nutritional
content, a source of protein, fiber, calcium, and minerals and known to prevent
a number of diseases. In the past decade, the health benefits of quinoa have
spread to Western cultures and quinoa has been deemed a “miracle food.” The UN
Food and Agriculture Organization has even labeled 2013 the
“International Year of Quinoa.” This growing popularity has caused the price of
quinoa to rise three-fold since 2006.
Since the huge price increase, a couple
issues have arisen. First, subsistence farmers that have grown food in the same
area for centuries are now scrambling to get new land and maximize production
through intensification. Time
magazine reports:
Traditionally, quinoa fields covered
10% of this fragile ecosystem, llamas grazed on the rest. Now, llamas are being
sold to make room for crops, provoking a soil crisis since the cameloid's guano
is the undisputed best fertilizer for maintaining and restoring quinoa fields.
(Other options like sheep poop appear to encourage pests.)
The change to intensified farming is unsustainable and will
be damaging to the farmers in the long-term. Without input into the soils, the
soil will not be able to support a sustained level of growth for more than a
few years and will rapidly decline, causing a risk of a boom and bust for the
farmers.
As well, the high prices for quinoa mean many
farmers are no longer eating quinoa, as it is much too valuable to keep.
Rather, they eat imported food such as rice, pasta, and luxury items like Coca
Cola and candies. Although they are now able to get more variety of imported
foods, many people are already experiencing health concerns from a switch to a
high-sugar, low-nutrient diet.
So what should we do about it?
Well that’s where the controversy lies. Some people argue we should stop eating
it because it’s taking away from the well being of the Andes’ people. Well,
that doesn’t really seem like a solution to me.
Stop importing quinoa so that the local people can go back to eating it
since they have no other options? The rise in quinoa popularity can be a great
opportunity for the farmers if a sustainable approach is taken.
There is also additional risk
because with quinoa on the rise, farmers in other countries, including Canada,
have begun to grow quinoa. This creates a competitive market, that will likely
drive the price back down and farmers in the Andes will have to build an
advantage to stay in the market.
I’m not entirely sure what the
answer is, but not eating quinoa for the sake of farmers definitely doesn’t
make sense at all. What do you think should be done?